Places to see in Kashmir

Most trips start and end here, and the city deserves more than the single night many itineraries give it. Sleep on a houseboat, take a shikara out before the city wakes up and walk the old quarter along the Jhelum.

The Mughal gardens line the eastern shore of Dal. Shalimar was laid out by Jahangir in 1619, Nishat climbs the hill in twelve terraces, Chashme Shahi is built around a cold spring, and Pari Mahal above them has the best view of the lake.

Gulmarg is a wide bowl of meadow surrounded by forest, with the Apharwat ridge behind it. In summer it is green and open, good for walks and pony rides. From December it becomes the best known ski resort in India.

The Gulmarg Gondola runs in two stages. The first goes to Kongdori at about 3,050 m, and the second climbs to around 3,950 m on Apharwat, where there is snow for most of the year.

Pahalgam began as a shepherds' village where the Lidder river splits in two. Today it is a small town of riverside hotels, with three side valleys that make it worth at least two nights.

Aru is 12 km upstream and is the starting point for the Tarsar Marsar trek. Betaab Valley is a broad meadow with the river running through it, and Chandanwari, 16 km away, often holds snow well into summer.

Sonamarg is on our side of the valley. The road from Srinagar follows the Sindh river through Kangan, past our office, then climbs through Gund and Kullan to a long meadow under glaciers.

Thajiwas glacier is a short pony ride or walk from the main meadow. Further up, the road crosses Zojila pass at about 3,528 m into Ladakh, and Sonamarg is also where the Kashmir Great Lakes trek begins.

Doodhpathri means the valley of milk, after the white water of the Shaliganga river breaking over the stones. It is in Budgam district, close to Srinagar, and still has very few hotels.

That is the appeal. You get open meadows and pine forest without the crowds of Gulmarg or Pahalgam, and it is easy to do as a day trip with a picnic lunch.

Yusmarg is a long meadow surrounded by pine and fir, south of Srinagar in Budgam district. The Doodh Ganga river runs below it and the Pir Panjal range sits behind.

The walk to Nilnag lake takes about an hour each way through forest. It is an easy half day, and a gentle introduction to Kashmir's quieter side.

Gurez lies over Razdan Pass from Bandipora, close to the Line of Control. The valley is narrow and green, the houses are built from logs and the Kishanganga river runs turquoise through the middle.

Above Dawar village stands Habba Khatoon peak, named after the sixteenth-century poet queen of Kashmir. Further up is the Tulail valley, where you will see very few other visitors.

This is home. Kangan is a small town on the Srinagar to Leh highway, and most visitors drive straight through on their way to Sonamarg. It is worth stopping for a day.

The eighth-century stone temples of Naranag are a short drive up a side valley. Above them, a two-day walk takes you to Gangbal lake below Mount Haramukh. The Sindh river runs clear and cold through the town, and it is good for rafting and trout.